Issues > November/December 2006 (#117) > Sweat-free Fashion

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Aysha Hussain is a freelance writer based in New York.

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From soy and bamboo to organic cotton and hemp, eco-friendly fibers are sweeping the fashion world. However, while designers and manufacturers are steering away from conventional cotton and petroleum-based synthetics, clothing produced without sweatshop labor has lagged behind. Because there can be as many as nine different subcontractors involved in the manufacture of one item, from fiber to packaging, "you really have many more opportunities for workers being taken advantage of without the wholesale company and the consumer necessarily realizing it," says Scott Leonard, CEO of ethically minded Indigenous Designs.

Recently, several prominent designers have opted for social responsibility. Bono and his wife Ali Hewson made employee working conditions their top priority when they launched Edun, with help from Loomstate designer Rogan Gregory, stating that clothing manufacturing—when done right—can provide a long-term economic stimulus for developing countries. Others like Indigenous Designs, whose mission is to make clothing that honors people and the planet, set out to do both by applying a two-directional approach. "We strongly believed that there needs to be an alternative for the consumer out there in preserving traditional culture and our environment when buying fair-trade," says Matt Reynolds, Indigenous Designs' COO.

Swati Argade clothing is manufactured by village cooperatives in Pune, Maharashtra, India; herringbone wool Strapless Class dress with corduroy trim ($396; www.swatiargade.com). MarketPlace: Handwork of India's funky Kochin skirt is handmade under fair trade standards (fair wages) by women's cooperatives, most in the Mumbai area ($39; www.marketplaceindia.com, 800-726-8905). Organic cotton Organic Cruiser skinny-leg jeans for women ($235) and men's low-rise, slim-fit Subterranean jeans ($230) by Serfontaine are designed and manufactured at their factory in California (www.serfontaine.com, 212-382-0301). Del Forte's organic cotton, low-rise, Calla Slim jean ($190) and Daphne Crop ($170) are produced sweat-free in a California factory frequently visited by the line's designer (www.delforte.com, 866-350-7829). While not made of organic cotton, Edun jeans are made in a Tunisian factory whose fair labor standards are independently monitored by a third-party, the non-profit Verité straight-leg Eclipse jeans for men ($160) and women's flat-front, trouser pocket, skinny-leg Sylph jeans ($180; see www.edun.ie for stores). The organic-cotton Venus V Back sweater from Fair Trade Federation member Indigenous Designs comes from a co-op in Portugal ($79; www.indigenousdesigns.com, 707-571-7811). Ailin's wrinkle-free Munich pencil skirt made of 100 percent recycled polyester is made in California and Canada ($120; www.ailin.com, 415-508-3671). Loyale's brightly-colored, organic-cotton Marseilles dress with tie straps is made in the U.S. ($128; www.loyaleclothing.com). Three percent of Loyale's annual profits is contributed to the non-profit Green Corps (www.greencorps.org), an environmental leadership training organization. Worn open or with a decorative brooch, Anna Cohen's deep cowl bamboo gown with adjustable halter ties is light and feminine, sewn from 100 percent bamboo fiber in her hometown of Portland, Oregon ($350; www.btcelements.com, 888-395-2135). California based No Enemy brand is known for its signature dove of peace T-shirt. All clothes are made with organic cotton and eco-friendly water-based dyes, in a Los Angeles factory, which is open to the public and where workers are paid a living wage starting at $12/hour ($25.96; www.noenemy.org, 831-345-6935).

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Filed under: Cotton, Clothing and fabric, Fair trade clothing, Green living

Green Guide 117 | November/December 2006 | For Yourself